Trip is for a total of 5 days – 3 days hike, plus a day each for travel to/from Terengganu. We wanted to have a good night rest before starting the hike, and to leave (next day) without rushing or worrying about completing the hike in time. No stress about catching the bus on the same day the hike ends. It’s a great decision, staying at the beach resort for a chill night out, and lucky to finally catch a lovely sunrise. Had been in Dungun before on another road trip, The most memorable thing about that trip was – it’s impossible to find beer in any shop or eatery or convenience stores except in Chinese restaurants. And we discovered the “only” alcohol wholesaler in town. No entering the shop. You just stand at the entrance, tell the staff what you want and they will go fetch from inside. You can buy in bulk or individual cans/bottles. And it’s packed in those black plastic bags. Reminds me of those days of buying pirated CDs in JB. That trip was a follow-your-heart no itinenary one, except that we will attempt to enter Thailand again. Hope to do one again soon. Meanwhile, back to the CBL
Day 1 – 21/5/2026
Four of us met in JB Sentral at 7.30am for breakfast. Lots of options here, many shops were already in operation. Not sure if they infact run 24/7? Nasi lemak, toast, coffee, lots of pre-packed boxes for takeaway. The warung downstairs is packed with early commuters too. After breakfast, we hop onto a Grab to JB Larkin, waiting for our bus to Dungun. From the main entrance of Larkin, head down one level – the ticketing machines, boarding gates, fast food, market are all here. It’s a straight forward process of printing out the QR code at the self-printing machines, going to the boarding gate. To the left of the row of ticketing machines are departures to Singapore, and on the right departure to the rest of Malaysia. Commuters everywhere! It’s a busy place. Look out for your bus (operator’s name) on the screen since I can’t really make out the announcements over the PA.
Ours is a double decker, and we got seats on the upper deck. Better view but it got a little bumpy at some points. The seats were wide – very comfortable, with leg rests that can be raised, charging points, window blinds. Being petite has its advantages too – I was able to stretch very comfortably with plenty of excess leg room. Passed by signages showing monkey, tapir and elephant. Have done several trips by KTMB, this is my first via public bus from Larkin. I believe there are buses going to every part of Malaysia! Unsure if there are other express buses direct to Terangganu, but ours had stops in Mersing, Rompin, Kuantan with a lunch break in Pekan. Delicious food at a budget! Mine was RM17 for a fish, beef rendang, vegetable, teh halia – couldn’t ask for more!
The rest of the ride was uneventful. Blinds closed, dozed off, awaken by some mobile ringing and chatter, doze off again … After 9 hours, we arrived, almost 7pm! Met with an extremely helper Grab driver. We wanted Chinese tzechar, he who helped us check on options and brought us to the most delicious dinner place! Tonight we stayed in a no-frill city hotel, near to convenience shops and easy pick up point to trailhead next morning.
Day 2 – 22/5/2026
Our guide had helped to arrange for land transport to CBL trailhead. Turned out he’s also a CBL guide from another group! Perfect arrangement! Drive from Dungun town to trailhead takes slightly more than an hour, turning into windy roads as we get nearer. Very misty morning too!
At the trailhead, we had breakfast – rice, chicken, veg and coffee. Need the energy as it’s a long hike today, 8km+, elevation gain around 1000m+. Here, admin matters, weighing and payment are settled. Collected our lunch packs. Met our local guide Kimmy, briefing of the route today, and we are finally ready to start at 10.30am! Many checkpoints along the way, and seats to catch our breath. It’s a loop, our guide has suggested that we do CLB instead of CBL. Kill the toughest on Day 1 where we are most energetic, have a full day water play in Langsir, and no logistics of switching campsites. It’s the best decision indeed!
After the initial tarmac road, it’s forest paths all the way, walking through several continous steep sections with huge roots, barren sandy trail, ladders, ropes, logs across rivers. Within an hour, we arrived at the majestic Chemerong waterfall, quick photo stop, went back to the trail, retrieved our bags and continued to move on. Our hearts dropped when Kimmy’s ETA to arrive at Langsir is 8pm, as we hoped to arrive before dark. We didn’t stop much for photos, my picures are back view of those ahead. The only fork is after Kem B – straight for those doing CBL where they camp a night in Kem Y, or turn left, a steeper route direct to Langsir for 2 nights’ stay there. There are many checkpoints, we skip some to save time, mostly steep upslopes, some gentle, some down, just keep going, hoping to reach Langsir before the last light.
I had in my bag a bottle of 100Plus, 2 bottles of mineral water, another half bottle from last night and a 400ml bottle with filter. Somehow I had forgotten about them, thought I only had 1litre with me. Thankful for refill points along the rivers! Water here is sweet and taste so good! I must have consumed about 2litre on the ascend. Missing my coffee during lunch!
The stretch after Sungai Bangan is the hardest for me. Steep, technical and slippery rocks, plus tired. 50min up, another 30min down and we arrived at Langsir campsite! 6.30pm – we spent 8 hrs making our way here, ahead of schedule. Met another big group of hikers, who’s on the second night stay. There’s kids amongst them! Really impressed!
Whilst on the way up, my mind is on nothing except jumping into the chilly waters for a good dip. But it rained! Still, we are thankful that we made it up here safely before it poured, and before night is upon us. The rest of the time is setting up the tent, freshening up and dinner! At the other end, there are also tarps for the guides, kitchen, surau. The rest of the hikers can pitch their tents on the slope dotted with many trees. The two sides separated by crossing a series of huge boulders. As there is only six of us, we were given the smaller side of the campsite. It’s a rocky area, with a huge tarp that’s already put in place over the rocky mass, and some small areas for pole tents. That will be later, for now, we just squeeze our tired bodies, aligning them along the contour of the rocks, nicely sheltered by the tarp, and watch the rain coming down.
Water’s life! Love the feeling of being so close to the water – play, swim, bath, drink, brush our teeth, washing up, washing our utensils all here. Just find the spots with fast running flow.
Day 3 – 23/5/2026
As promised, it’s a full day at Langsir. After a starless night last night, we woke up early this morning, hoping for sunrise. Alas, the blankets of clouds were way too thick. No sunrise, but thick fluffy clouds that I wish I could plonk into!
After breakfast, the other group left. Vacated the large camp ground. We still preferred the small one we were at. Did some re-pitching to avoid rolling in the tent. In our haste last night, I had pitched on a little slopy ground and spent the night rolling off my mattress and getting into recovery position. The rest were under the tarp, either by way of sleeping bag or free standing tents. I debated a long time about what kind of tent to bring, the pros and cons.
We spent the rest of the day playing in the waterfalls at Jeram Lesung, about 5min from Langsir campsite. There’s a natural slide. Instead of sliding, we butt-shift our way both directions, enjoying the various spots that offer free power jets. The area also feature two water holes, and big areas of clear turquoise pools for waterplay.
By lunchtime, the group who went the Kem Y way had arrived. We also met with two super-fit hikers who are doing the CBL on a day hike! Quick rest at Langsir and they are on the way down. They are good but certainly not my kind of fun, nor stamina! And we went for another dip after lunch!
Some stuff which I brought
Day 4 – 24/5/2026
Today is descending day. But first an ascend of around 300m to Berembun. Seems short, but extremely steep. Kimmy said there’s a 90degree segment, thankfully only about 5min! I can’t recall where that section was, the whole climb to Berembun seems challenging, taking us about an hour. From there it’s down all the way. Now in reality going down is very bigger struggle. I often perspire immensely during the process, and true enough needed to hydrate more than when ascending.
By 4pm, we are back to the trailhead. Happy that I’ve finally done the hike, one which I’ve been hearing so much about! Made new friends, tried new gear, and all in, another happy memory. Being a bit dirty, a bit sore, walking in the rain, stepping in the mud, letting the hair down, frolicking in the waters, sleeping in a space without a key, with some unknown, unplanned, not knowing what the trail will become, what tomorrow will bring – this is what I love most! Can’t wait for the next one!
We waited for our driver/guide who was the sweeper of the other group. Another long drive back to town. Tapau KFC, and oops no beer, and finally arrived at the resort. Grateful that the staff waited for us. It’s a beautiful resort by the beach – couldn’t have had a better end to a trip!
