Day 1 – Kuala Pilah/ Turtle Soup/ Smoked Meat/ One Heritage Hotel, Seremban
Day 2 – Gunung Angsi/ Bahau/ Riverview Hotel
Day 3 – Bukit Taishio Sunrise/ Titi/ Jeram Toi/ ihome Spa Home/
Day 4 – Titi food/ Chun Yin School/ Bentong/ Erya Hot Spring/ Winns Hotel
Day 5 – Bukit DO Sunrise/ Bentong Murals/ Campsite/ Chamang Waterfall/ Bentong Farm
Day 6 – Bt Desa Damai/ God of Wealth Temple/ Malacca/
Day 7 – Tangkak/
For road trips in Malaysia, we tend not to do advance hotel booking these days, just in case we stumble upon something unique along the way. Today our confirmed plan is Gunung Angsi hike. Since we have been to Seremban on previous trips, we decided to check out Kuala Pilah, a small town on the other end of the road. Passed by the trailhead, and continued on the quiet road, trying to catch shots of the tapir signboards. For some long road trip humour, notice that some of the tapirs were “naked”, some with white “pants” and others with yellow “pants”. Attracted by several “smoked houses”, often with racks of ducks hanging over a fire. Chatting with the owner, we realised it’s semi-cooked, and used for cooking or stock preparation. If this were a camping trip, we would have bought one to try with dinner! Along the same road were stretches of padi fields. Charming sight indeed!
Arrived at Kuala Pilah. By now we are used to the idea of different parking apps in different areas, having collected a handful of them over the last road trips. Here parking is 30sen/jam. Makes me feel like screaming at the rates we pay at home! Lunch is at a marketplace – labi labi! or what they called in mandarin translated as “water fish”. Turned out to be one of the must-try in Kuala Pilah! We had a soup and a dry version – braised “water fish”. I didnt know there’s bones in the turtle flippers!
Decided to head back to Seremban for the night. Booked into One Heritage Hotel, which turned out to be such a gem. It’s right next to a huge hawker centre, and near the breakfast market as well. That settles our pre-hike meal.
Next morning, we started the day early. Visited a nearby market for breakfast. Only a few noodle stalls were opened. There was a queue for Hakka noodle, which to be is yong tau foo. We opted for wantan noodle, easy and delicious meal before heading to Gunung Angsi.
Next stop is Bahau, about 50km away. Interestingly, the name Bahau is believed to be translated from Cantonese “horse mouth”. Just as I’m goggling on the origin of the name, I found out that there’s another small town called “Mahsan” just 10minutes away. This translates to “horse body” in Cantonese! Makes me wonder where is the “mahwei”? And why “Bahau” and not “Mahau”?
Anyway, we arrived in Bahau around 3pm, thirsty and in need of something to cool us from the heat. It’s a relatively small town, and most things seemed like walking distance from one another. We found a cluster of coffeeshops and restaurants, and was happy to find Ah Ngau Dessert and the best ABC we have tried! The peanuts were so fragrant and totally gave the dessert another dimension!
Next morning will be sunrise hike to Bukit Taishio. I’ve heard so much about the sea of clouds I can’t wait for it! Upon reaching the trailhead, we met with an elderly uncle who used to be a photographer. So off we go! When we arrived at the summit, we could see why this hill is a favourite amongst the locals! We also met another Malaysian who’s migrated to Sydney and now back for family visit. What a small world! More photos on Bukit Taishio here.
Breakfast is so good! I love this kind of old school coffeeshop!
Back to the hotel, refreshed and checked out. Next stop – Titi, 60km away. Such a cute name! Titi is a quaint little town, predominantly of the Hakka dialect group. Pretty much one main road up and one road down, with small side roads leading to the narrow lanes inside. Most food and activities are concentrated in the centre, near the Police Station, and all within walking distance from one another. Whether it’s breakfast, lunch, dinner, kueh kueh, murals or Chun Yin, the oldest Primary School up the hill, it’s all here.
In the morning, the street is abuzzed with activities. I am looking forward to feasting on the kueh kueh, which is available in the morning – and sold out fast! For now, we chanced upon a traditional pau shop. Believe it or not, today will be their last day of operation in the original location. The boss’s story is no different from our situation back home – rental skyrocketing, lack of manpower, lamenting how his children are not keen to take over the business. The pau, I must say, is really good! We tried the char siew, yellow wine chicken and preserved vegetable. Lots of pride in their food as the boss explained the laborious process of every single item – painfully hand-made with love. His char siew, for example, is cut by hand, checked and charred bits trimmed off for healthier serving. As he proudly explained, “I don’t serve customers what I don’t give my family!” We need traditions like this to continue, not central kitchen after central kitchen!
We found a really nice homestay in Titi too, cosy room in a big house, complete with herbal steam! I love the lemongrass one, smells so good! There are other facilities too – mahjong, table tennis on the second floor, but we didn’t have time for them.
After checking in, we made our way to Jeram Toi waterfall. Lucky again as it had been closed and just opened the day before!
After a whole day of water activity, it’s time to visit a dobi! I really like these self-service laundromats, and the good thing is they are everywhere! I only packed two sets of clothes for the entire week!
Dinner is in one of the restaurants along the river, recommended by a local we met at the dobi earlier. We were so hungry we ordered 3 of their specialties. Needless to say, they are delicious!
Next morning, more food! The streets are alive! Locals catching up over coffee and breakfast in coffeeshops. The makeshift stalls selling you cha kueh, another selling Titi T-shirts. The kueh stall near the police station, supposedly the best, is not ready till after 11am.
Walking along the rows of shops, we decided to have breakfast at one of the crowded coffeeshops – once again wantan noodle and yong tau foo. Wantan noodles must be the most popular food in Malaysia! Look at those thick layers of meat sandwiched between, pure satisfaction! (I don’t know what’s the difference between this and Ampang YTF in KL) We also found another shop selling kueh in all colours and fillings! Everything here is handmade, nothing central kitchen mass produced. It’s foodie heaven here! I imagine the elderly folks sitting in a circle either rolling out the dough, preparing the filling, wrapping the kueh or cutting the leaves. Oh notice they don’t use banana leaves too, but something else – unsure of the name.
No hike today, but we had a little uphill walk to Chun Yin, the oldest Primary school in Titi. Parts of it reminds me of my own primary school, which had already been demolished.
It has been a wonderful 2 days in Titi. People are so friendly. I already am missing the kueh kueh. Wished it’s nearer for us to keep returning! A few more photos of Titi, and the lovely prewar houses …
Our next stop – Bentong, 110km away, home of the best ginger. From Negeri Sembilan, we crossed into Pahang!
Ever since we first stumbled upon a hot spring after our Gunung Datok hike, we have kept our eyes open for more. There is one just 30min from town. Infact, there’s two, next to each other. One is a public pool while the paid one operated by a hote resort. We opted for the latter.
Here in Bentong, we found a little hotel right in the corner of the city centre, away from the noise yet near enough to walk around. Just perfect!
Behind our hotel is Bukit DO. At 100+ elevation, we can’t possibly skip this!
Just like the other towns, wall murals depicts what they are known for. Here – ginger for sure!
How about food?
In the same area there is a campsite. Looks clean, spacious and well-equipped. Can either bring your own gear, or rent one of their glamping units. I think the site of own tent pitching offers much nicer view.
After breakfast, we headed to Chamang waterfall. There’s a crazy slide from the second tier. I haven’t enough courage to try, though did capture some when others were doing that stunt!
On the way out, we spotted a petting farm. This is one of the most memorable places we visited in Bentong! The close interaction with the animals, and the relationship between the rangers and their charge. Exccellent knowledge and sharing too. Without a doubt, it’s a must-go place when in Bentong, young or old alike. The habitat and the animals look clean and healthy. We arrived late and did not have enough time to complete the round, but we are already impressed with what we have seen. When we were leaving, I think it’s also time for the animals to “go inside”. From a distance, I could see the zebra, ostrich and ducks running up and down as if playing chase! They must be such a happy bunch!
Did another sunrise hike to nearby Bukit Desa Damai. View here is even better than that in Bukit DO. We could see the valleys filled with clouds!
Bentong is a not-so-little and not-so-rustic town with lots to do. Our last stop before leaving – God of Wealth Temple.
From here, we start our return, with a stop in between. As always that stop is good old Malacca!
This time, we made a detour to Tangkak instead of heding to the NS highway. So much good food in Malaysia. I think we easily consume double or even triple our usual intake. Putting on weight is an understatement!
